The Downton Abbey fashion show has officially closed after 21,000 people took a look at the Virginia Historical Society in Richmond, but another exhibit is still delighting visitors who fondly remember American designs from the 1930’s to the 1970’s. As Sandy Hausman reports, this state has played a central role in haute couture.
For more than a century, American clothes were made with fabrics from Virginia. By 1949, 17% of the manufacturing jobs in this state were at textile and apparel-making companies. Cotton was king in the 1800’s, but manmade materials arrived in the 20th century. Curator Lauranett Lee shows one swatch on display at the historical society – a bit of rayon made from processed wood in Rayon Terrace, Virginia:
"First used in toothbrushes in 1938. It dries quickly, so that means you could have a larger wardrobe. Here we’re looking at nylon that was first used in women’s hosiery," she says.
After World War II, the Lynchburg Hosiery Mill was one of the largest makers of stockings, sox and tights in the United States.
Then there was polyester, a cheap, stain-resistant material invented in the UK. A scientist at Dupont in Waynesboro combined it with other materials in 1958 to make spandex.
While Virginia was on the cutting edge of fabrics, Lee says it was conservative when it came to styles.
"When you think about the 30’s and 40’s we began to see more women wearing trousers nationally," Lee explains. "You don’t see that as much in Richmond."
Hats were another matter. Richmond was home to a well-known milliner – Sara Sue -- who produced chapeaus in all shapes and sizes, colors and materials – straw and raffia, netting and ribbons, feathers and wool.
"This was during an era when women wore hats regularly," Lee says. "In fact some did not leave home without hats!"
The clothing now on display at the Historical Society in Richmond comes from donors and staff who fondly remember what their mothers and grandmothers wore – and the outfits they donned in the 60’s and 70’s – sometimes to the dismay of those moms and grandmas. Mannequins sport mini-skirts, halter tops (worn without a bra), and disco-style pantsuits.
For many visitors, it’s a delightful trip back in time – seeing familiar magazine covers, patterns, clothes and accessories. Helen Scott Reed recalls spaghetti as she looks lovingly at a Sara Sue hat.
"I went to school with her daughter, which was kind of fun," Reed recalls. "She used to go to Italy every year on buying trips to get feathers and flowers and hats, and she’d come back and have an Italian dinner for our whole class. That was the first spaghetti I ever had."
And what display of fashion would be complete without shoes! For a time, Richmond was the nation number five producer of footwear. The show – Looking Good: Fashion In Virginia -- is up through the end of April.